Italian people love to belong to their contrada and can’t wait for the day of the Palio to challenge their neighbours.
The Italian Palio is a traditional contest taking place in many different cities across the country. It can be a horse race, a donkey race, a boat race or even a goose race. In some cities the Palio consists of an ability challenge with ancient weapons, like crossbows. The pattern is always the same: a medieval city divided in rival contrada or rione (neighbourhoods), people wearing strange costumes and one day of passion.
The word Palio comes from Latin Pallium, the precious garment given as price to the winner of the contest. It is at the origin of the common Italian expression “mettere in palio un premio“, to give a prize in a raffle. There are many Medieval cities and towns scattered all over the country and Palio’s are everywhere. For historical reasons Toscana is the region where these traditional contests are more famous abroad, but Palio’s are really everywhere. There are over 400 Palio’s in Italia, and of course we are not going to mention all of them. It’s worth spending a few words on the two most popular ones.
- Il Palio di Siena (Toscana)
Il Palio di Siena is the most famous, celebrated and symbolic Palio of Italy. It takes place twice a year in summer, on July 2nd and and August 16th. The first one is called Palio di Provenzano, the latter is called Palio dell’Assunta. The race takes place in the wonderful Piazza del Campo, in the “navel” of Siena. The origin of the Palio di Siena is still not completely clear. Some people say it was already there between 1000 and 1200 a.d. and the horse race was done in a different fashion. The Palio di Siena is based on alliances, bribing, betrayals, pride and old unsolved disputes. The perfect ingredients of a typical Italian drama.
Nowadays the competing contrada are 17, named after the medieval bestiario, representing real or imaginary animals: Aquila (Eagle), Bruco (Caterpillar), Chiocciola (Snail), Civetta (Owl), Drago (Dragon), Giraffa (Giraffe), Istrice (Hedgehog), Leocorno (Unicorn), Lupa (She-wolf), Nicchio (Shell), Oca (Goose), Onda (Wave), Pantera (Panther), Selva (Forest), Tartuca (Tortoise), Torre (Tower) and Valdimontone (Mutton). In the Past there were other contrada’s but they were merged or changed with others. The ground rules of the Palio di Siena are overcomplicated, in perfect Italian style. Out of 17 contrada only 10 can run the palio: 7 are the ones which did not run the previous year and 3 are selected at random. The horses are not of pure breed and are assigned to each contrada with a lottery. There have been rumors of bribery and unfair agreements between friend contrada’s, but that’s part of the game. The most critical moment of the race is the start. Only when 9 out of 10 horses are aligned in front of the hemp rope used as start line, the horses are unleashed. It’s a moment of tension and tactics, because allied jockeys can push enemies and change the position of rival horses, putting them in disadvantage. This tactical phase of the race can last for a very long time and I spared you a few minutes of it in the video. If the horses can’t align before sunset, the race is postponed to the day after. The tension hits the peak when the rope is released and horses are free to run. Then anything can happen. Some horses and jockeys fall on the dirt, sometimes horses stand up again with no jockey, and then are called cavallo scosso. Even if not guided a cavallo scosso is lighter than others and can win the Palio. The people of the winning contrada bring the jokey in triumph to their neighbourhood. Rivers of wine music and celebrations last all night. The Palio di Siena is very representative of the Italian mindset towards enemies and rivals. Whilst trying to win is logical, it is also allowed to disturb the other horses. The winner is the first and the loser is the second, not the last to cross the finish line. The Palio di Siena, being always at the centre of attention, is criticized by animal-rights associations, asking for a ban for cruelty on horses. Supporters of the Palio di Siena respond to criticism saying that the rate of injuries on horses are not higher than any other horse race showing statistics and numbers. In the last few years there have been new controls imposed by the Italian authorities and designated vets look after the horses before and after the race. Right or wrong, the Palio di Siena is still one of the most fascinating traditions of Italy.
- Il Palio di Asti (Piemonte)
Second in terms of popularity, il Palio di Asti, in the northern region of Piemonte, is celebrated since around the year 1000, but the first written mention talking about “an old Palio” is dated 1275. The event celebrates the saint of the city, San Secondo. About 1200 people in medieval costume reproduce the traditional life of the city. The Palio itself consists of a horse race, where 21 horses are mounted bareback, with no saddle. The race takes place every third Sunday of September.
The Palio di Asti is less wild, safer than the Palio di Siena. The Palio stopped because of the war in 1939, and resumed only in 1967. The reborn of the unforgotten tradition of Asti, was so important for the people of the city and the neighbouring villages that no less than 100.000 people came to see the event and celebrate. The Palio consists of three preliminary races, of 7 participants each, and a final. The first price is of course the precious garment, the last price is a pickled anchovy. The race changed location several times. Now is is in the central, triangular, Piazza Alfieri, named after Vittorio Alfieri, an icon of the Italian literature born in Asti in 1749. The preparation of the events taking place in September starts in May and goes on for the whole summer with some minor palio’s and other events, like flags-waving contests. The Palio di Asti was the first one to admit a team of vets for first aid and to work with scientists of the University of Turin in order to improve the circuit, and reduce the risks or accidents or injuries for both jockeys and horses.
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